Monday, 3 January 2011

Sightseeing

I've just completed a book titled Sightseeing by a young Thai, Rattawut Lapcharoensap and am blown off by how simple yet powerful his collection of seven stories is. As the cover says, the writer “takes his readers beneath the surface of Thailand to a place that is dynamic and corrupt, full of pride and passion and fear.” He was born in Chicago and raised in Bangkok.

I picked the book up at a sale and am glad that this unassuming book has been absolutely rewarding. As a newcomer to Thailand, I am trying to understand what the country is about. Fortunately for me, I work with a great bunch of people, Thais and non-Thais and am able to learn a bit. Because I work and stay outside of the city centre, I get to see a bit more of the daily routine of the folks around me who don't necessarily work for an embassy, an MNC or an NGO:)

But the reality is, Thailand is a place for foreigners to get wild, to shed their skin and be something else. No one back home will know. Its a secret shared with the people here. Shake off your clothes, let your hair down. Its almost as though the locals expect you to do that. Some do, its money for them. But if you stop and think about it, how do they really feel about it?

We all need it sometime, this craziness and maybe we just have to thank the Thais for letting all of us experience that, in our own ways.

Back to the book.

In Farangs, Rattwut's lead character, a half-white half Thai guy is obsessed by white women but ends up always being heartbroken. But the scene that drew me into the above train of thoughts was when one of the farang girls “luk” wants to impress is taken to his uncle's elephant corral, and the uncle is immediately irritated by the sight of the girl in her bikini.

“'Tell the girl to put on some clothes,' Uncle Mongkhon growled. 'It's unholy.'”

The uncle, who has had his business affected by a big tourist company, scolds the nephew for disrespecting his establishment and asks if the Americans would appreciate it if the others stripped down to their underwear and rode on the eagle!

And his Ma sums up her view of the farang tourists: “'Pussy and elephants. That's all these people want.'” She says that Thailand has so much to offer, the temples, the food, the culture, yet all the foreigners want to see are the elephants, go for the sex and and get skin cancer burning their skin on the beaches. Bitter and disappointed because of being abandoned by a farang with a baby, yet cashing in on the only currency driver there: tourists.

In his other stories, Rattawut explores the struggles of families against poverty, death, desire and lust. In Cockfighter, Wichian almost dies after a streak of losses in cockfighting, to a local bully who imports a Filipino cock and trainer. The story is told by Wichian's daughter, Ladda, who watches how the father is losing his mind, how the mother struggles to work sewing laces and sequins onto bras, and who wants to be out of this place.

Priscilla the Cambodian has no links to the queen of the desert:) Its a very telling account of resentment and xenophobia so close to many of us. Here, the writer touches on the fate of Cambodian refugees in Thailand through the story of Priscilla, a young refugee and two local Thai boys who befriend her. Then there's a story about a lady who is going blind (the book title) and goes on what is probably her only and last holiday trip to the Andamans with her son, who thinks he will have to give up his studies to take care of the mum. And in Don't let me die in this place an American, Perry comes to live with his son and Thai daughter-in-law in Bangkok after suffering from paralysis. Perry thinks its the worse thing to happen to him, living in Thailand, but soon begins to appreciate the love between his son and daughter-in-law and to accept being taken care of by them.

In Draft Day, a young man risks his friendship to avoid being drafted into the army because he has the benefit of his family's high connections and in At the Lovely Cafe, the story is about a young boy and his older brother after their father dies (and mum goes a bit off the edge) using the typical symbols like riding the motorcyle, visiting a brothel, drugs...but in vivid images and ones that move you.

I think its wonderful how Rattawut weaves through the different personalities and characters and offer the readers fiction that is so personal. He writers brilliantly, I like the humour but he captures the conflicts and dilemma well. Anyway, I have to share my favourite line in the book, can't help it. From Farangs:
“I knew it was love when Clint Eastwood sniffed her crotch earlier that morning and the girl didn't scream or jump out of the sand or swat the pig like some of the other girls do. She merely lay there, snout in crotch, smiling that angelic smile, like it was the most natural thing in the world...”
There's a photo of the author on the back cover. He's a nerd. But hey, nerds rock!

Some real reviews here, and here.

Now off to pick something else from my depressingly tiny book collection.

Oh Sunday bliss

It was a gorgeous day for a walk in the park and birdwatching. I chose as my first field trip the Suan Rot Fai (the old railway park), now renamed as the Wachirabenchathat. Its very close to the Chatuchak market and Chatuchak park, so was cautioned that there were birds being sold in the park that could be escapees.

Anyway, I found a really useful site on birdwatching in Thailand, maintained by a guy called Nick Upton, site called thaibirding.com. It has checklists for birds spotted in various areas, so that was some homework for me to do. Its tough when you're a novice and doing it alone. But I think Suan Rot Fai is a good training ground to get used to the small ones. Even though the list has only 3 warblers, I swear to God they drive me nuts! But they are so adorable:)

There are 3 favourites for today, all new, or at least I managed to identify them on my own. By the way, the park is busy with joggers, bikers, families picnicking, and still it was a rewarding day in terms of new birds on my list.

The first fav was the Indian Roller. All sites I read said this bird can be seen perched on wires in the town or close to residential areas, but I had not spotted any. So I was quite determined that I should see one. And lo and behold, it was the first for the day after an unsuccesful attempt to ID one of the tiny birdies. Truly you can't miss the Roller, especially in flight. The turqoise on the crown and wings in the sunlight is stunning! I read the description in the book the night before and thought, that's a lot of colours, but they are there – turqoise, purplish-blue, green, olive, brown. The good thing is the Roller is there for a while so there was enough time to appreciate the fella.


(All pictures taken from the birdinginmalaysia site)












Moving on, there were some of the others, the warbler is tricky but I made it:) And of course the flycatcher too, but it was actually close enough for me to observe even without the binos.

Then my luck! Fav #2 for the day. I had just turned and spotted the Coppersmith Barbet on a tree by the water. He gave me enough time to make out that it was indeed him, and then flew off. Its relatively smaller than the other barbets I've seen but very colourful nevertheless.


Around the corner, I saw the Common Kingfisher and thought of the number of people who walked and jogged pass and didn't see this beautiful bird. I watched it till it dived into the water for feed!

I've been most curious about the bulbuls at my place because I wasn't sure which they were. But this morning I had the chance to watch them for a while at the park and am sure that my neighbours are also the Streak-eared Bulbul.

At some point, I had seen the warbler and decided to observe it for a while, to try and identify all its features. I found a bench and sat there with my binos. All of a sudden, the place became a flurry of activity with the bulbuls, and the Asian Pied Starlings. And among it all I spotted a Small Minivet!

Then off to see the water birds – egrets and the herons. The Chinese Pond Heron is a funny one. He just stands there like he's a chameleon thinking that no one notices it there. He's still for a long time, and then when he thinks he's tricked you, he starts to move. And he's not even hiding between any grass or branches, just out in the open. Funny dude!

Now its been 2 hours and I think I've done quite well for the day, at least knowing most of what I've seen. The park is a nice place to just sit around as there are some small lakes and lots of trees. Maybe the time is right too as its not too hot these few months. But its time to go back. So I pack my binos and head out of the park. Just at this point, the Indian Roller decides to fly past and parks himself on a tree branch close to where the butterfly park is. I notice there's a pair. Out come my binos again and I watch them for about 10 minutes before I frighten them off trying to take a photo:)

Now I think I'm really done and then this bird flies past and I'm curious. Out with the binos again and here was fav #3 for the day: the Tiger Shrike. I've seen the Tiger Shrike in Cameron Highlands before but this was much closer.

A nice wrap up for my trip today. Back home for some food and a siesta in the breezy afternoon.








The list for today from SRF:
1. Coppersmith Barbet
2. Common Kingfisher
3. Indian Roller
4. Little Egret
5. Chinese Pond Heron
6. Tiger Shrike
7. Black Naped Oriole
8. Small Minivet
9. Pied Fantail
10. Common Iora
11. Asian Brown Flycatcher
12. Oriental Magpie Robin
13. Asian Pied Starling
14. Streak-eared Bulbul
15. Arctic Warbler
16. Two-barred Warbler
17. Olive-backed Sunbird

This evening while writing this, I spot a pair of red-whiskered bulbuls just outside my apartment. My first encounter with these birds was in Mt. Abu in Rajasthan, and I just love them. They have a bit of a crest and red on their cheeks and vent (in trying to recruit my nephew as a birdwatcher, I told him its the bird with the red bum-bum. At least he rememberd it). Chances are with bulbuls, if you've spotted one, its in a pair and there might also be a few more around.

Saturday, 1 January 2011

Happy New Year!

So this was my first New Year's eve in Bangkok, apparently one of the most happening places to celebrate New Year. But it was pretty much the same stuff - concert, fireworks, parties etc.
Skipped the fireworks blitz downtown but went around the older part of the city, and did what many Thais do - go to the Wat and take photos in front of the Chitalada Palace:) And then saw pretty much every home and apartment have karaokes! Its massive!
But here's to hoping that the year brings something to cheer about - knowing fully well every experience is relative.
Happy New Year to all!
1.1.2011

How difficult was the year

Writing Christmas cards was difficult this time. After the first line, there had to be long pauses to take care of the emotions that literally poured with the words. And the words were: “What a year it has been...exactly a year ago, Soeren and I left Malaysia to move to Denmark.” Verbalising feelings and emotions are difficult and I struggle to give them meaning. Anyway, a few of us friends were asked a few nights ago how we would describe the year in terms of difficulty, rating it anywhere from 1 to 10 (10 being the most difficult). That's the theme for the post – difficult.

One friend said I would certainly say difficult, for what has happened. Was it, I thought? The 9 months since Soeren's funeral has been a time for me to think and reflect. A lot. To the point I'm philosophising about everything. Someone's going to say shut up sooner or later. Back to the score of difficulty.

Was it a difficult year? It was definitely a sad year, the emotional experience has been rather intense. There is feeling of loss, in a different way than I've experienced before. As I told my friends, there's that churning in the gut that I think is what people refer to or experience as, emptiness. The physical manifestation of sadness is not to be underrated. The tightness in the chest. The gulp in the throat especially when you're about to cry. The feeling of being caught off guard when the tears sneak up from nowhere when you read, listen, say something familiar. So, yes, its been difficult. But that is sadness. And I need to turn it over on its head because its a good thing for me, me who often find it difficult (here's the word again) to express pain and sadness.

But there are so many things to be grateful for. As there should be on a daily basis:) There are family and friends to be thankful for. Those who know how to help you get to the core of your state and get through the experiences; those who are just there being themselves because that's how you love them anyway; those who create opportunities for you to expend your adrenaline and anger; those who genuinely care; those you have a good time with. Often many do not know how they have been supportive. Its these people who Soeren spent his last year saying thank you to. One can only learn from that. Clearly he was able to do that because he accepted his circumstances and used the time he had to gather good vibes for himself.

And in that way it was easy. He made it easy for people to support and help him. I realise how much better life is when you're not in a denial. Its not about accepting “fate” as it is but taking the reality of the situation and steering it in the direction that you want to as much as you can. Even in the most traumatic, life-ending experiences when nothing really makes sense, you can still choose for it to be meaningful.

I know my mother's theme in the last years of her life was detachment. She expressed it in ways that took me some time to understand but I eventually did. I recently found a book she had been reading but didn't complete, and saw also the train of thought she might have had reading the book. I'm planning to explore that much more at a later stage but it was clear with the interpretations of the soul, attachment and detachment, how it possibly played a part in her spiritual journey. My last conversation, in the form of an argument, was a way for her to detach from the world, maybe she knew it was her last day alive. My last conversation with Soeren was about detachment, with him picking my brains on how to interpret it and what it meant. I'm not sure I know fully well what it means, but I have an idea of it, and tend to accept its basic principle. Maybe that's another reason for not immediately saying 10 on the score of difficulty.

But we agreed over a very nice dinner, my friends and I, that each person would relate to the word difficult, differently. We all have our own tolerance for pain and sadness. The numbers will not mean anything to anyone but ourselves.

My score was 6. The loss can be unbearable but the flipsides are not to be, and should not be ignored. I refuse to have it on the lower side of 5, maybe because that would mean I have lost some control over the situation. And I don't think I have.